Through a succession of charismatic drinksmiths, tweaks to the decor and conceptual menus that break ever more virgin ground, Timothée Prangé and Dotan Shalev’s Little Red Door is the master of reinvention. Celebrating its eighth placing on the 50 Best list, the current bar stewards of this cosy and cosmopolitan Marais district bar, Rory Shepherd and Alex Francis, are just as driven by changing the conversation as those who came before. Indeed, since the pandemic Little Red Door has pivoted towards a more localised and seasonal approach. If that evolution began last year, the latest menu, Grounded, digs deeper, exploring how an urban bar can forge productive and lasting relationships with farmers. In doing so they have changed their business from the ground up, with a new site opened to process the abundance of peak-ripeness produce that now headlines in their creations (try Walnut, made with walnut shrub, whisky, dry rosso vermouth and sparkling wine). For the bar that never stops evolving, this farm-to-glass approach is one thing that’s here to stay – that and 60 Rue Charlot’s little red door.