You could call Hiroyasu Kayama a farmer who bartends. He runs four beehives, tends to nearly 100 juniper trees, and grows a host of botanicals that he dries in what was once his bedroom on the family farm just outside Tokyo. The botanicals go into his homemade absinthe, green herbal liqueurs and fermented wormwood tonic water, which power part of the deep cache of creative cocktails at Benfiddich. In typical Japanese style, there is no menu, but give him some parameters and he might steer you to a hot-buttered Chartreuse, an absinthe brewed with high-class gyokuro tea, or his latest creation, a gimlet accented with foraged dokudami, an Asian leaf that gives the cocktail a fabulous herbal complexity, but which is notorious in Japan as the taste of the tea your mum makes you drink for health reasons. It is the quintessential Benfiddich drink: based on a classic, playing with preconceptions and executed with finesse.