Artesian may be a legendary four-time winner of The World’s 50 Best Bars but very few refer to its past glories these days. Under its current leaders Anna Sebastian and Marco Corallo, it has its own identity – a buzzing hotel bar, with warm and friendly five-star service and top-class cocktails. The most recent drinks list – honed in lockdown – is in reaction to highfalutin approaches. Opening the page on the Disco Years, it takes the most derided of dark-age cocktails and makes them delicious. So expect reimagined renditions of the Blue Hawaii – featuring 100% agave tequila – the Long Island Iced Tea made with chai and amaro, and the Sex on the Beach with blood orange and Campari. Best of all is Artesian’s spin on the modern-day Pornstar Martini, featuring Sauternes and vanilla acid with Champagne on the side. So Artesian, with the same high ceilings, period panelling and pagoda bar, may feel like its old self, but like the drinks it now serves, its current incarnation breathes fresh life into this once dormant giant.