Trick Dog

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3010 20th St, San Francisco, CA 94110

In spite of its size, this neighbourhood warehouse in San Francisco is almost always packed to its high-pitched rafters, with drinkers downstairs and diners on the mezzanine. Finding that balance between volume and quality is hospitality’s tightrope, and one trodden with dexterity at Trick Dog. That’ll likely never change with owner Josh Harris in charge, but one thing that does keep moving is the bar’s cocktail list – and at quite a pace.

Every six months we see the inception of a menu that is designed to look anything but a menu. There have been Chinese takeaway menus, a children’s book and the 12th off the creative conveyer belt is the Joy of Cocktails: A Trick Dog Cookbook. Imagine a colourful, kitsch, ’70s cookbook and you’re halfway there. The cocktails – try the Cala, with mezcal, Amaro Lucano, Ancho Reyes Verde, salsa negra, green apple, lime and oyster leaf – are as exotic as ever and arrive, as is the Trick Dog way, with a minimum of fuss.

Image: Sonya Yu