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20 Sadovaya-Karetnaya Ulitsa, Moscow, Russia

AT MOST DELICATESSENS, what you see is what you get, but at this Delicatessen, the fare exists in the minds of the bartenders. Classical imbibing is the thing here and the staff’s intimate understanding of the golden oldies mean you can just throw drinks at them (not physically), sit back and watch the Muscovites make it happen.

The bar also puts it own spin on these old-timers, with homemade infusions the most likely of embellishments. So, like a Twister party at a retired Russian gymnast’s house, expect some jaunty manoeuvres that still have balance.
Punters can go interactive too and there are customer boxes into which recipes can be locked down for posterity. Well, maybe not that long, but they don’t throw them out immediately.

Décor-wise we’re talking wooden floor, wooden furniture and a wooden bar top. Lots of wood, really. But there are blackboards and bottles to break up the look in what is a very classy affair.

Up from 50 to 41, Delicatessen is only headed in one direction.