Janes & Hooch

4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China

By Alexander Barlow

WARREN PANG and Milan Sekulic’s self-styled ‘urban saloon’-non-speakeasy remains Beijing’s go-to cocktail concern, partly for a lack of serious competition but mostly for its avowedly un-snooty tone, highly dependable drinking and a tightly engineered service machine. Not many teams in China get it this right.

Cocktail capabilities and charisma are consistently well keeled and few bars can do craft and crush as confidently as Janes & Hooch – a two-speed bar that shows the same poise as a volume venue as it does as a low-key, mid-week, drop-in drinkery.

A smart, un-showy interior and gimmick-free, anti-molecular monthly changing menu that centres on efficiently boozy classic cocktail templates helps it win at both. But, really, the service is the thing here. Props to Mr Pang for that.

William Reed