7 Ann Siang Hill B1-01, 069791 Singapore
By Nicholas Coldicott
“We knew we were doing things a little differently,” says Operation Dagger co-owner and head bartender Luke Whearty with some understatement. Certainly it’s unusual to stick a (fake) CCTV camera in your loo. And he’s the only bar owner to have ‘mixologist wanker’ embroidered on his staff’s black uniforms.
Nowhere else has anything like this apothecary-in-a-bomb-shelter aesthetic, or eye-popping lighting rig inspired by a Jeff Wall photograph. Few bartenders design coded pictogram labels for all their bottles. And not many have omakase leave-it-to-us course options on the menu, where you get what you’re given and probably love it.
The courses begin refreshing, go bold, and end sweet, much as a great meal would. If you’re lucky, yours will include the exceptional Fallen Fruit, for which the ’tenders take natural wines that would have gone to waste and warm them in a sous vide bath with vanilla and curry leaf, plus citric and tartaric acid to put the sharpness back. That one is served in a custom-made ceramic pear and sipped through a hollowed vanilla bean.